"On the second day after our departure from Ekaterin-
burg, as we were passing through a rather open forest
between the villages of Markova and Tugulimskaya, our
driver suddenly pulled up his horses, and turning to us
said, " Vot granitsa " [Here is the boundary]. We sprang
out of the tdrantds and saw, standing by the roadside, a
square pillar ten or twelve feet in height, of stuccoed or
plastered brick, bearing on one side the coat-of-arms of the
European province of Perm, and on the other that of the
Asiatic province of Tobolsk. It was the boundary post of
Siberia. No other spot between St. Petersburg and the
Pacific is more full of painful suggestions, and none has
for the traveler a more melancholy interest than the little
opening in the forest where stands this grief -consecrated
pillar. Here hundreds of thousands of exiled human beings
— men, women, and children ; princes, nobles, and peasants
— have bidden good-by forever to friends, country, and
home. Here, standing beside the square white boundary
post, they have, for the last time, looked backward with
love and grief at their native land, and then, with tear-
blurred eyes and heavy hearts, they have marched away
into Siberia to meet the unknown hardships and privations
of a new life.
No other boundary post in the world has witnessed so
much human suffering, or been passed by such a multitude
of heart-broken people. More than 170,000 exiles have trav-
eled this road since 1878, and more than half a million since
the beginning of the present century. In former years,
when exiles were compelled to walk from the places of their
arrest to the places of their banishment, they reached the
Siberian boundary post only after months of toilsome
marching along muddy or dusty roads, over forest-clad
mountains, through rain-storms or snow-storms, or in bitter
cold. As the boundary post is situated about half-way
between the last European and the first Siberian etape, it
has always been customary to allow exile parties to stop
here for rest and for a last good-by to home and country.
The Russian peasant, even when a criminal, is deeply at-
tached to his native land ; and heart-rending scenes have
been witnessed around the boundary pillar when such a
party, overtaken, perhaps, by frost and snow in the early
autumn, stopped here for a last farewell. Some gave way
to unrestrained grief ; some comforted the weeping ; some
knelt and pressed their faces to the loved soil of their native
country, and collected a little earth to take with them into
exile ; and a few pressed their lips to the European side of
the cold brick pillar, as if kissing good-by forever to all that
it symbolized."
George Kennan. Siberia and the Exile System (1891)